Coast of Bays passage

Hillgrade:

We just got back from a few days on the south coast -- should that be capitalized? -- and it was worth every minute of the l-o-o-o-n-g drive.

Left here on Friday morning around 9:30. Arrived at Southern Port Hotel in Harbour Breton sometime about 2pm, I think. John immediately had his nap. I went off exploring and to buy a hair brush after discovering I'd not packed mine.

What a gorgeous place. I had heard the south coast was beautiful, but I wasn't prepared for it to be THIS beautiful. It helped that the sky had not a cloud and the temps were in the high 20s. I started oohing and aahing right at the outset and never stopped until we got back on the highway yesterday afternoon to come home. And even from the road there were vistas that took my breath away.

As I said, we started out in Harbour Breton. Took a million snaps there. Went to a play in the evening (it was the last night; talk about lucky) at the Elliott Premises. It was grand fun and a bit of a challenge to tune our ear to the local accent. The actors were all young people and it was wonderful to see them involved in a venture like this. The stage had its limitations but they did a wonderful job and overcame them all. We had lots of laughs and thoroughly enjoyed ourselves.

Next day it was foggy, which is apparently the norm in Hr. Breton, so they say. However, we went off to Deadman's Cove and would have walked the trail (2.5 hrs round trip) but my knee was giving me a lot of trouble so thought we'd better not risk it. We would have taken the trail up Gun Hill, too, if it hadn't been for my darn knee. Instead we took more snaps.

Hermitage - not what I expected. Thought it would be bigger, and (I hate to say it) prettier. Getting hungry. Went on to Sandyville. Saw a place that advertised convenience. Door was locked. Another place advertising convenience was also dark as a dungeon. On to Pass Island but it was very foggy and no stores loomed up there at all. So back to Hermitage and noticed that all the places in that town were closed too. Gas bar, included. Asked a lady near the Anglican church where we could buy groceries and she said Crewe's. So off we went and found it closed. Hmm. Went up to the door where a man was waiting and with sign language (his) and silly gestures (mine) found out the place didn't open until 1pm. Ah. The owners have to go for their dinner. Silly me.

We waited a bit and a lot of cars started arriving. Had to line up to get into the store which had a front door right out of the 1850's. Wanted to buy one of those little cans of potato salad we used to get years ago. This store looked like it ought to have it. But no. Considered buying a can of Vienna sausage just for old time's sake. Thought of the Maple Leaf listeriosis thing going on. Instead bought granola bars, fruit cups and cheese. Ate in the car.

The ferry to Galtois (pronounced Galtis) and McCallum wasn't at the dock when we were in Hermitage. If it had been, I would have been sorely tempted to make the trip. We were told it costs only $1 if you're over 65 and $1.50 if you're not. However, we didn't want to wait for it and moved on. Next time. (Update: See Note at bottom)

As we were leaving Hermitage, we noticed a sign to Furbey's Cove. Not on the map. Let's see what's out there. We were not disappointed. Furbey's Cove is the original name of a village from which the occupants were resettled back in the 60's. And it is now being re-settled by the daughters and sons of those who had been forced to leave. We spoke to a man who was originally from Galtois who filled us in on all the comings and goings. He said his missus had gone berry picking on the highway and he had some time on his hands. 

Headed out for Pool's Cove. Highway pavement was red all the way. Sign of something special at the other end? 

For sure. The place is extraordinarily beautiful. Spent a lot of time there, walking the streets with the camera. The fog lifted the minute we entered the town and stayed gone the whole time.

Fog rejoined us as we headed for Belleoram and lifted a little when we got there. Another georgeous little town. First things first and found a washroom at a little restaurant. Told the fellow we'd be back for supper. Turned out that the menu had only meat, so I hope he didn't wait up for us.

The rest of that little section along the Fortune Bay North shore -- St. Jacques, English Harbour West, Mose Ambrose, Boxey, Wreck Cove and Coomb's Cove (photo at left) -- was rather difficult to appreciate, it was that foggy. We had heard there were two B&B's at Coomb's cove but couldn't find either. Good thing we had already reserved a spot at St. Alban's for the night or we might have been sleeping with the fishes.

The drive from the north shore of Fortune Bay to the top of Bay d'Espoir is long when you're tired and hungry. We arrived at St. Albans Inn (may or may not still exist - 2023) just after their dining room had closed and they offered to make us a bowl of soup and a sandwich. John and I had both been jonesing for pizza all afternoon and instead headed off to the only take-out in town, mouths watering for veggie pizza. Turned out they had only pepperoni, and since it comes pre-made, it would have been hard to take the pepperoni off of it. Sigh. So we found another grocery store and bought some peanut butter, sandwich spread (I did finally get something I haven't eaten since I was a kid), bread and fig newtons. Back to the hotel for supper on the bed, and Olympics on the TV.

Sunday, up and out reasonably early. Off to see anything we'd missed the previous two days. So we roamed about the Bay d'Espoir area. Tried to get up to the hydroelectric installation but were stymied at every turn. Two long off-road expeditions (very narrow; very bumpy) were enough for us (and the car) and we gave up. Maybe next time we can pre-arrange a tour of the place, if they still do that in these days of terrorism and all.

We ate lunch at a very nice park down by the water in Milltown. Guess what we ate? If you didn't guess peanut butter and jam sandwiches, fruit cup and wet cheese (it had fallen into the watery ice in the cooler), you're not thinking hard enough.

I had to go pee in the woods and set off to find a secluded spot. Nearly did myself in by straddling an ant hill, but noticed the buggers crawling over my shoes just at the last minute. Nearly killed myself coming out of there. Had to grab on to alder branches to keep from tumbling out onto the path. I walked back via a very empty beach, and found lots of beach glass - blue included. Turned out that John had gotten worried when I didn't return and had set out to find me. Not sure how we missed each other since I was in full view on the beach and he was walking along the road just by it.

There was a heritage home as part of the park. It had been built there originally, moved in 1900-something to another location, and then moved back to its original site in the last few years. There was a large sign and guess who the movers were. You got it: the same crew who lifted our house - Robert Coates from Glenwood (except they forgot the 'e' in Coates on the sign).

And that was about the end of our travels. We hit the road (Route 360) to head home. 45 km from the Trans Canada Highway, we stopped to pick blueberries. There had been a forest fire there some years ago and the area had grown over with lots of blueberries, as is often the case. John is not a happy picker so he napped in the car while I picked to my heart's delight. The temperature was about 30 degrees so I wasn't at it long. There are some things that even I can't do in heat like that. But I did get enough for a dessert that I'm making for tonight when Jo and Simon come over.

The whole time I was down on the south coast, I had to keep pinching myself. If someone had picked me up and put me down in China, I couldn't have been any more thrilled. I grew up in Newfoundland and had never been south of Grand Falls. Ever. Unless you count Buchans. There was just no road at that time to the south coast. It was by boat or not at all. So just twisting my mind around the fact that I had been there was mind-bending in itself. To find that it was so heart-breakingly beautiful was icing on the cake.

I actually started taking notes for poems during this trip and I haven't done that in a few months. I should go there more often.

Note: Update April 2023: The adult fare for ferry from Hermitage to Galtois is now $2. From Galtois to McCallum: $6.25. From McCallum back to Hermitage: $6.25. Even if you stay in Galtois or McCallum in between trips. All around the circle. Pretty cheap little jaunt. You leave your car in Hermitage so no gas costs.